Matsuri Guide

Name in Japanese and English

• 花園神社例大祭（はなぞのじんじゃ れいたいさい）
• Hanazono Shrine Reitaisai (Grand Annual Festival)

History

The Hanazono-jinja (花園神社, Hanazono Jinja) is known as the guardian shrine of Shinjuku (総鎮守, sōchinju) and one of the major religious landmarks in the heart of the city. According to local accounts, the shrine is linked to an Inari deity (稲荷, Inari) and was reportedly transferred to its current location during the Kan'ei era (寛永, Kan'ei, 1624–1644) after having been situated closer to the current Shinjuku-sanchōme intersection. It has also been known by other historical names, including Yotsuya Oiwake Inari (四谷追分稲荷, Yotsuya Oiwake Inari) and Sankō-in Inari (三光院稲荷, Sankō-in Inari).

The shrine has undergone several destructions, followed by modern reconstruction after the damage at the end of World War II: the current main hall (社殿, shaden) dates from the Shōwa era (昭和, Shōwa) and was rebuilt in the mid-20th century. The Reitaisai (例大祭, reitaisai) is the major event at the end of May: it alternates between an even/odd year cycle, with a more "solemn" form called omote-matsuri (表祭, omote-matsuri) in even years, and a form called kage-matsuri (陰祭, kage-matsuri) in odd years, focused on the neighborhood mikoshi (町会神輿, chōkai mikoshi). 

Event Location and Date

• Location: Hanazono Shrine (花園神社, Hanazono Jinja), Shinjuku, Tōkyō (新宿区, 東京). 
• Address: 〒160-0022 東京都新宿区新宿5-17-3 (Tōkyō-to, Shinjuku-ku, Shinjuku 5-17-3). 
• Access: Shinjuku-sanchōme subway (新宿三丁目駅, Shinjuku-sanchōme-eki) exit E2, a few minutes' walk; from Shinjuku (新宿駅, Shinjuku-eki) East exit, approximately 7 min walk.
• Date: Late May, around May 28 (3 to 4-day period depending on the year).
• Date Type: Variable: set for the weekend closest to May 28 (often Saturday–Sunday–Monday, sometimes Friday–Monday).

Schedule

The Reitaisai (例大祭, reitaisai) transforms the neighborhood into a celebration: rituals at the shrine, lively street atmosphere, and a strong presence of stalls (露店, roten) within and around the grounds. Worshippers come to pray for protection (厄除け, yakuyoke), prosperity (商売繁盛, shōbai hanjō), and good fortune, while the neighborhoods (町会, chōkai) mobilize around the mikoshi.

The most common schedule is as follows: Yoimiya-sai (宵宮祭, yoimiya-sai) in the evening (often around 6 PM), then Taisai-shiki (大祭式, taisai-shiki) in the late morning, and a major highlight of togyo (渡御, togyo) with Chōkai mikoshi rengō togyo (町会神輿連合渡御, chōkai mikoshi rengō togyo) on Sunday. Depending on the year, you may also see the Shinkō-sai (神幸祭, shinkō-sai) and, as a closing event, the Kōen-sai (後宴祭, kōen-sai) in the evening.

The main particularity is the alternation: even years (omote-matsuri／表祭, omote-matsuri) may include the procession of the two main mikoshi, Honsha mikoshi (本社神輿, honsha mikoshi) and Raiden mikoshi (雷電神輿, raiden mikoshi), while odd years (kage-matsuri／陰祭, kage-matsuri) primarily feature the neighborhood mikoshi, with different logistics and scale.

Practical Tips

Photos

For the mikoshi (御神輿, omikoshi), aim for the exit/entry angles near the torii (鳥居, torii) and major thoroughfares where the procession slows down. The best combo: arrive before the procession starts to scout, then reposition yourself at a less crowded vantage point. In the evening, bring a fast lens and keep an eye on the reflections from the lanterns (提灯, chōchin) and stalls.

Weather

Late May in Tōkyō can be mild to already humid. Dress in layers (t-shirt + light outer layer) and bring something to handle a short shower: the atmosphere remains outdoors for a long time, often standing.

Transport

The easiest way is Shinjuku-sanchōme (新宿三丁目, Shinjuku-sanchōme) by subway, followed by a short walk. On evenings and Sundays, expect very dense crowds around Shinjuku: if you want to avoid the rush, adjust your arrival (a little before a highlight) and your departure (after the crowd disperses).

Visitor Tips

If you want to see the "grand" version, aim for an even year (omote-matsuri／表祭, omote-matsuri) to maximize your chances of seeing the major mikoshi. A useful bit of Japanese: “Doko de mikoshi ga tōrimasu ka?” (どこで神輿が通りますか, doko de mikoshi ga tōrimasu ka) = “Where does the mikoshi pass?”.

What to Bring

Cash (屋台=often cash), power bank, small towel, drink, and, if you plan to stay into the evening, a light jacket. In case of rain: poncho rather than an umbrella in the crowd.

Sources & References

• 花園神社（公式サイト）

  Official website of Hanazono Shrine: general information, contact, "Annual Events/Access" pages as available.

• 花園神社（新宿観光振興協会）

  Reference sheet on the shrine (history, address, access), useful for framing the context of the Reitaisai.

• 花園神社例大祭（Walkerplus, archive 2018）

  Useful archive for typical schedules (yoimiya, taisai-shiki, shinkō-sai, kōen-sai) and the classic 4-day structure.